James Mchaffie
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A Journey through Lakeland

6/27/2014

15 Comments

 
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   In 2003 I was living in Wales but all I could think about was this project in the Lakes. The idea was to climb as many great Lakeland routes as possible in a day.  I’d thought about it since 1999, inspired by Big Ron’s circuit in the Peak but it took a few years to take root and develop, with lists I’d make getting tricky beyond 80 routes. There was also a distinct lack of strategy in the planning, with me thinking to set off and finish on Esk Buttress taking in whichever routes I’d please along the way, the route I was going to finish on if I had the steam won’t be mention. I’ve always had a rough guesstimate of how difficult I’d find the task depending on the routes taken in. I thought I could do about half any day of the week, to do ¾ I’d have to be going well and to do the lot I’d need a fair wind behind me. This was surprisingly accurate.

    A week or so before I was going to make my first attempt on an overly ambitious list of routes I set off on a route called Exponential Exhaustion at Kilnsey. I got passed a technical wall to better flat holds but these were dusty and a minute of flapping found me in mid air. The thread which appeared good exploded when I came onto it and the rock hit me in my ear with some speed. I arrived near the base and Rob Fielding lowered me the rest of the way. He turned away in disgust which made me worry at first that my ear was hanging off but it was only a small hole in my ear. A trip to A&E left me with stitches, a compression strap on my head to prevent Cauliflower ear and slightly dodgy balance for a week or so. It’s still the worst fall I’ve taken and could have been much worse as just before I was going to go for the thread I uncovered a key wire hidden by some vegetation which is what stopped me. I was a little superstitious at the time and took it as a sign not to attempt the solos. This was a good thing as I doubt I would have got close back then, confidence can only get you so far. It never came together again but was always in the back of my mind as; a would have, could have, should have......

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Top of llech Ddu looking towards the Menai Straits, Herford climbed in the region roughly 100 yrs ago.
  A decade later the scheme came to mind again, more as a curiosity at first, looking at lists, thinking about possible routes and cliffs you could visit. The last few years I’ve done about 0.1% of the soloing I used to do and in the spring 2014 I began to get reacquainted, re-climbing routes like Fingerlicker, Silly Arete, doing 10+ routes at Gogarth in an afternoon and running into the Carneddau for routes like the Grooves on Llech Ddu. It did feel harder. Routes that had felt akin to paths a decade ago felt like they were a much bigger deal.

   When I set my full first list out in March or so I felt a pang of despair. It was considerably watered down than a decade before but still looked ridiculous on paper. I started to work out realistic timings and these made it worse, maybe people were correct about it being a mad idea. It took me back to the book ‘The Life of Pi’ when Pi s dad tells him the story of a karate expert thinking he can fight a Tiger to put him off going near the dangerous animals in the zoo. I was concerned I was being as deluded as the karate expert who obviously gets killed rapidly in the story.

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First watered down list, 90 % of it stayed the same but needed to rearrange a few
PicturePat & Craig
   I’d not booked any work in for the last 2 weeks of June, hoping to get some good weather during the longest days of the year and looking forward to hanging out in the Lakes, visiting family nearby. It turned out to be one of the luckiest of weeks, the ‘stars truly aligned’ for it. I worked on an ML assessment on the weekend of the 14th of June and on the afternoon of the 2nd day where my lower body normally feels like it has been done over in an American prison instead they felt fresh, the hauling and climbing in Yosemite had delivered a good fitness base.

   On the Tuesday of that week I arrived in the Lakes feeling a little rough but with fantastic weather and an ace forecast. I headed straight to Goats crag, a tiny crag beyond Reecastle which I’d not been to before. The views back towards Scafell and Greatend were incredible and I did everything on the cliff before heading to the big Goat crag to go up Preying Mantis and stash an ab rope on top. Heading down I did a couple of E2s I’d not done and arriving at a tiny esoteric cliff in the woods named Macs wall was blown away to meet other climbers. Pat and Craig from Carlisle who had known dad. We headed over to check out Millican Daltons buttress which was unfortunately filthy although I did Cold Lazarus for old times sake, this small buttress was removed from my list.

   The Wednesday was the key reccy day I’d decided upon, the make or break day, leaving Stonethwaite campsite I was going to run up Langstrath to Flat Crags and work my way back to my car. If I choked or was crawling off the hill the idea was a dud and I felt a little bit anxious about finding out just how pie in the sky the idea was.

    I did a load of routes I’d not done before loving Neckband, after 2 cans of coke in the ODG I payed for it with a headache as I topped out on Gimme. On the run between Pavey and Sergeant Crag Slabs I saw 2 red deer enjoying the solitude of the fell top apart from myself. I got down to my car feeling like I’d had one of my best days out climbing. I knew I could do a lot more, having done a lot more running to access Flat crags than I’d be doing when starting from Scafell. The game was on.


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A view from above Heron down Borrowdale on the main reccy
   I worked at Eden rock the day after and gave a talk there in the evening. Julian a friend I’d not seen in over a decade came and mentioned it was his 50th on the weekend and he was keen to climb on Bleak How and heron. I couldn’t believe my luck and gave him my rope to use and dump there saving me a walk. Julian is married to my favourite ever teacher Liz who apart from teaching me lots interesting geography gave me some of the best advice as a teen, don’t get in a car with a drunk friend driving.

   Friday morning arrived and I did 6 routes on Grange crags finding more of them in a climbable state than I expected although with agricultural finishes. Later that morning I head up to Reecastle with Ben Pritchard and Rich Heap to get some footage for the BMC. Rich asks if I’ll get lonely. I thought it very strange as I’m happy walking alone in the lakes and am doubly happy climbing alone there. Many of the climbs are like meeting old friends or flicking through an old diary.

   The weekend was spent relaxing. Sophie comes up from Wales and we visit my sister, Heather, brother in law, Richard and Godson Thomas. They rent a beautiful National Trust house on the quiet side of Windermere, near where the Swallows and Amazons was thought up. The Saturday night we spend in the CC hut in Grange, appropriately there was a poster of Dan Osman doing a half lever whilst soloing a big flake saying don’t let your fear stand in the way of your dreams. Sunday I drop my car off at Stonethwaite campsite and Sophie drops me at Sheps cafe. Hock picks me up and we went round to Wasdale and had a meal in the Head with Craig Naylor, farmer, climber and grandson of the legendary fellrunner Joss Naylor. We all chose the Cumberland sausage with mash.

   We hike into Hollow Stones and set up camp. It’s quiet but Mary Jenner, Mark Greenbank and Keith Phizaklea are on the way down and come for a chat. Dave Birkett is checking out possible new climbs on a hill around the corner. Later Rob and Craig Matheson come along as well. By 20.00 it was only me and Hock, my enigmatic friend I’d known since primary school, who indirectly helped start me soloing. Hock said he’d meet me at Falcon Crag sometime in early 1996, he didn’t. I set off up Spin Up and Funeral Way. From then on it opened up a different world of climbing. Dick Patey was in his mid 50s and lived near the Borrowdale hotel in the 90s. He was fit as sin and I watched him solo MGC regularly and routes like the Bludgeon. We were convinced he was ex-special forces. I used to chat to him about good routes to go for.

  I’d brought the tent up for both of us but Hock decided not to, being fond of the stars and sheep he went and slept under them!

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Hocking enjoying the evening at Scafell
   At 2.55 my alarm went off. I’d slept well and felt rested but looking up towards Scafell it was pitch black. I carried a small rucksack with a thermal, trainers, an empty bottle for stream water, some food, a map and a compass.  Not hungry I forced down some food a small tea and set off.

   CB was the biggest route on the list and in its own way the most intimidating. The 1st ascent of this in 1914 was visionary with the kit they had. Leaving Sansoms shoulders to grovel up the crack before bringing Holland up was some feat which dad would speak of in his lectures in the Moot Hall in Keswick. Mabel Barkers and Menloves efforts were incredible also.    

   It was the centenary of the 1st ascent this year and I’d read a great deal about the 1st World War and what was ‘involved’. Herford died in it in 1916 at the age of 25. His essay ‘The Doctrine of Descent’ is a brilliant piece of writing concerning mountain climbing.

 Starting on CB felt like paying respects and the story and tragedy related to the climb was like fuel.



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Central Buttress, Scafell
   I topped out at first light and felt relief, scree running back down to meet Hock before contouring round to briefly join the Corridor Route a path my dad had helped build. After a few routes on Piers Ghyll crag and one on Undercarriage wall feeling much like grit, I continue running and receive a stunning view of Styhead Tarn, Derwentwater and Borrowdale in the Dawn light. It was a crystal clear day, 4.30 in the morning with empty hills.

   I track round to Esk Hause and Ore Gap looking back towards Scafell, the East Buttress is in full glory and the Main Face shown as a silhouette. Dropping off Bowfell I arrive at Flat crags, Simon Gee is there and after a quick handshake I head up Fastburn. I run down to Neckband and set about 6 routes. I was only going to do 5 here but looking at a crack at the base called Cut-Throat I thought it looked easy after America. I was wrong, it was dusty, smeary and quite strenny.

   I dropped down into the valley noticing some Bog Asphodel and Sundew between the Bedstraw and bracken on the way up to Gimme where I set off up Intern. I 1st climbed this with Alison Iredale in 2001 the same day as the twin towers. I drop down left and set off up Gimmer String. On the top Steve (superfit) Ashworth is there having bivvied on the top. I used to work with Steve and it was great to see him. 15 mins later I arrived at Pavey Ark.

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Gimmer String. Steve Ashworth
PictureRay McHaffie in Borrowdale, 1950s
    I first climbed here in 1999 and arriving I soloed Astra and Cascade before belaying Dave Birkett on his project. He told me he was concerned if he fell off he would hit the ground. He got really high and fell off. His gear held fine but it gave me a shock. Dave has only deepened his legend through the years putting up incredible lines. Whilst working with him and Paddy he would tell us that he was the best dry stone waller in the world. Nay said we but 2 years ago he won at the Chelsea Flower Show. He was the best!

    I go up Capella and Poker Face before heading via Cove crag and Bright Beck Cove towards Sergeant Crag slabs. The 2 red deer are there again on the quiet felltops.

 Dad found Sergeant Crag slabs in the mid 90s and it gives some of the best single pitch slabs between VS and E2 in the Lakes. He brought me up here to climb my first HVS, Lakeland cragsman. Hock was there having driven round from Wasdale and I quickly do 5 routes before pulling back up the hillside to jog to Heron. The climbs here are small but on perfect rock and it is a great place to visit after Bleak How. After Heron I drop off to Bleak How and Fat Charlies Buttress before arriving thankfully at my car. I’d told myself at this point to pretend I’d stepped into a fresh body and was just starting. I stuck on Leftism, the music of mine and Dans Yosemite trip and if you’re into that kind of thing a contender for the best album to have left the 90s.

   I arrive at Goat a short while later and head up Preying Mantis. I first did this with dad who said a friend of his once got his fingers trapped in a fingerjam on the 1st pitch whilst seconding. He couldn’t free them so dad started to go down to him saying he’d have to cut the finger off. His friend freed the finger. Tumbleweed Connection, Bitter Oasis, Mirage and Footless Crow are some of the finest climbs in the lakes.

   I head up a few shorter ones before heading to Grange crags. Dad once told me Colin Downer came round the house threatening to beat him up if he did any of Downers lines on this crag. I was curious as to how I’d be on these ones. Sudden Impact and Rough Justice have 5c moves about half way through. I was a bit tired but mainly in my feet. I headed towards Shepherds and the sacrilege of missing out dad’s favourite cliff, Black Crag was not lost on me. I took it off the list a few days before starting but intended to do his climb the Niche later on.


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The best café in the world
After an egg butty at Sheps cafe I cover Sheps in the heat of the day feeling very muggy. Porcupine felt hard, Aaros as ever the most pleasurable and by the time I reach Brown Crag Grooves I know I’m tired. Shepherds is nearly always dry, has the ‘best cafe’ at the base and offers great views across Derwentwater. My first climb was on here, Donkeys Ears.

   Hock picks me up from beneath and we drive round to Reecastle, a crag in a truly stunning setting near Watendlath the views from its top are back towards Bassenthwaite Lake. There is a small crowd back from the crag. Maxine Willet from the Mountain Heritage Trust has brought the Abraham Brothers camera up. It’s great to see Duncan and Evon Booth with their kids and with them feeling confident enough in my ability that their children won’t see anything traumatic I feel buoyed. Nicole Macgregor, Clare and Henry Iddon are also around the cliff, part of Hocks enigmatic social networking. Two climbers allow me to use their abseil rope speeding up events. It feels warm and I do 8 climbs as fast as I can. Towards the end a climber asks why I don’t do Thumbscrew as he found it easier than some of the others. I’d intended to but was too tired to do it safely. Since leaving Shepherds I didn’t think I’d complete the challenge. Fatigue had properly arrived. I did a pleasant techy E2 on the south crag, Widowmaker and myself and Hock headed up to Goats. Enjoying the smaller climbs I feel like at the end of a long few days sport climbing. Rogue Herries I’d left till last on this cliff as it was the hardest and I didn’t think I’d do it but wanted to pull up to look at the first hard bit, after a minute I commit upwards in what became the only bad bit of the entire day.

   Feeling pretty battered I decide to leave Lower Falcon, although it would have been great to do the Niche. At the garage in Latrigg Close we grab a sandwich, lucosade and Hock some tabs before we set off into Thirlmere. This used to be my commute road and as Castle Rock appeared in the evening sun the journey with my primary school friend felt a little surreal and brought ‘The Heart of Darkness’ to mind for some reason. The travel from goats to Castle Rock was the biggest rest I’d had and arriving at the crag I got a 2nd wind. A few routes on the south crag meant a move to the north with 5 routes left to do. I really wanted to do a 3 pitch one, Thirlmere Eliminate and Harlots Face. These routes involved Jim Birkett, Paul Ross, Don Whillance, Joe Brown, Pete Greenwood on their first ascent and were cutting edge for the area at the time. Thirlmere Eliminate went well being a corner at the top you can bridge and get all the weight off tired arms. I think I’d done most of these climb with my friend Wesley Hunter sometime in the 90s, we had a load of adventures and some truly ridiculous teenage arguments on the cliffs.

  At 10.15 or so I finished on Angel Highway and was glad I’d had a frenzied hour negating the need for headtorch climbing when tired at the end. I sent Sophie a message. Hock had brought up some bottles of Cumberland Ale and myself, Hock, Simon Gee and Henry Iddon got stuck into them before heading to the Oddfellow Arms in Keswick for another pint. Lucy Wood had made some great food which me and Hock got stuck into sometime after midnight before bed. The next morning I met Hock and Lucys lovely baby, Olive Tinker Hocking. Dave Birkett got in touch to see how it had gone.

  I was deeply touched by the level of support given by people both on the day and in congratulations afterwards on what I’d seen as a personal pilgrimage through some great memories of the Lake District. Some climbs were big, some were tiny, some were clean, some were filthy but all were in the most fantastic landscape.

 Thanks a lot to everyone involved before, during and after for having some faith in a somewhat out there idea. If you get the chance go and climb in the Lakes.   Nice one Hock.

 

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Simon Gee glad to be leaving Castle Rock holding a Cumberland Ale
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The Southern Comfort was given to me by the Rapid Rock crew from last year, I'd saved it to celebrate
 FIINAL LIST

CB     Heatwave 95         Shaun & Haley          Sleeping with the stars              Piers de piece

Wheel of Misfortune   Fastburn     Gillete direct      Razor crack   Gandalfs groove direct    Sweeney Todd    Cut Throat     Aragorn   Intern    Gimmer String

Capella    Poker Face  The confidence man     The futures bright     Slab, ridge and arête      Nibble   nibble  Bright Beck Corner     Confusion Wall    The Tinkerer      Little Jack

Asphasia    Quicksilver     Holly Tree Crack    Deathstroke       Between the Lines

Heaven knows Im miserable now     Flamingo Fandango     Big Foot    The Question    Little Corner   Barefoot    Joie Pur    Traverse of the Frogs

Amistad con el Diablo     Bleak How Buttress

Cellulite   Cholesterol Corner   Supermodel    Reassuringly Stocky

Preying Mantis   The Sting     Paint it Black   Zombie in the Dark     One Across

Fuel Crisis    Driving Ambition   Desmond Decker    Rough Justice    Sudden Impact   Red Neck

Mule Train   Black Icicle   Porcupine   Hippos might fly    Straight and Narrow    Grasp   Poop & Clutch  MGC    Shanna   Aaros   PS  North Buttress   Imago    Jaws   Conclusion    Brown Crag Grooves       

 White Noise    Rack Direct     Rack Finger Flake    Water Torture    Bold Warrior   Gibbet   Guillotine   Gauntlet   Widowmaker

Mort     Balancing Act    Light Fantastic   Pussy Galore    Munich Agreement   Optional Omission    Nightmare Zone    Berlin Wall   Stranger to the Ground    Rogue Herries  

Mackanory

Green Eggs and Ham    Reward    Romantically Challenged     Pinnacle Wall    Final Giggle  

Harlots Face    Thirlmere Eliminate     Wingnut    Angels Highway

15 Comments
Dan link
6/27/2014 03:24:48 am

Good effort. not able to "follow" you on FB though, you might consider turning this on.

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Pete
6/27/2014 03:53:02 am

Incredible performance; and what a lovely champion for Lakeland rock climbing! :-D

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Ben Tye
6/27/2014 04:49:20 am

Congratulations James. A lovely piece of writing too... I'm inspired.

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Pat Kane
6/27/2014 10:05:50 am

Well Done James !!! Never doubted your ability.Glad me and craig bumped into you at Mac's Wall made our day.

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Jenny Tweedy
6/27/2014 02:12:47 pm

Well done James, brilliant effort, lovely write up…..

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Phil Wake
6/27/2014 04:12:16 pm

Brilliant Caff, amazing adventure! Hope the Cumberland Ales helped recovery....

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Dave Musgrove
6/29/2014 03:45:51 am

Brilliant effort James. I once soloed 6 routes in an afternoon on East Buttress and thought I was a hero. Not sure I could even cover the distance between the crags in a day now, never mind the climbing.

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Bob Wilson
6/29/2014 11:25:46 am

Well done Caff! Great account if a grand day out! Stunning achievement.

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John White link
7/1/2014 03:17:13 am

James, that's a fantastic effort. Wilf Williamson and I did 76 routes in about 18 hours on assorted Lakes crags back in the early 1980s and we thought that was pretty good going - this feat is in an entirely different league - an absolutely outstanding and perhaps unique performance.

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jana link
7/14/2014 11:02:14 am

Mooooc pěkná příroda, dobrý nápad a dosažený Sen :-D

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Tara link
12/10/2020 12:24:42 am

Hi thanks for shharing this

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Brian Cruse link
8/2/2022 07:53:48 pm

I arrived near the base and Rob Fielding lowered me the rest of the way. He turned away in disgust which made me worry at first that my ear was hanging off but it was only a small hole in my ear. I’m so thankful for your helpful post!

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Jorge Alley link
8/2/2022 09:20:12 pm

He brought me up here to climb my first HVS, Lakeland cragsman. Hock was there having driven round from Wasdale and I quickly do 5 routes before pulling back up the hillside to jog to Heron. I truly appreciate your great post!

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Keith Dolloff link
12/28/2022 07:38:38 pm

I was living in Wales but all I could think about was this project in the Lakes. The idea was to climb as many great Lakeland routes as possible in a day. Thank you for sharing your great post!

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Scott Jordan link
1/24/2025 07:30:23 pm

What an enchanting journey through Lakeland! Your vivid storytelling brought the stunning landscapes and tranquil atmosphere to life. It sounds like a perfect getaway!

Reply



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