James Mchaffie
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A 100 or so good E6s

12/18/2014

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   It's the time of the year again when I start to formulate lists of must do routes. I've put together a list of some of the better E6s I've climbed over the years in various areas. Scotland is sadly lacking in the list but Murdo, Ian Small, Blair and Tony Stone are all good candidates for info on the better ones to go for. Many are incomparable in terms of difficulty and seriousness, with routes like Hells Wall and Eye of the Tiger being technically hard but much easier leads than routes such as Other Realms or Stage Fright.
  The routes on the Stigmata buttress should be handled with care. Some of the routes are well known and probably get as much traffic as any E6 does but there are a few more esoteric ones people might be keen to search out. The guidebook descriptions for many routes at around this grade should be taken with caution as often they're off the mark with the grade as some get repeated rarely. I've shaded green ones that are good tasters at the grade but they may still have some bite. The ones with a + sign may be at the upper remit of the grade.  I've left out the highballs and the total clip ups although Grezelda and Ghost Train just scraped in. Many of the routes are by the same list of first ascentionists, the likes of Littlejohn, Gibson, Crocker and Fowler, Livesey, Fawcett being very prolific.  
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Paul Swail enjoying Above & Beyond, Fairhead
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Wen Zawn, aptly named where Conan the Librarian and Mr Softy are found
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Smoothlands. Hellbound and Creeping Flesh offer brilliant slab climbing
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Strangers tackles the short but brilliant right arête found in north Pembroke, Craig Llong. A Crocker classic
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Pasquil showing that although he struggles on brit 9a+s he has no problem on grit
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Robins getting ready to race up Ghost Train
Two Wee Laddies, Rora Head, Hoy                                     Great White, Blue Scar                            

Handren Effect, Glen Nevis                                                Milky Way, Ilkley

Highlander, Kioch, Skye                                                     Conan the Librarian, Gogarth

Old El Pastits, Gairloch                                                       The Cad, Gogarth

Dead Calm, Gairloch

Bonxie, Pabbay                                                                 Mr Softy, Gogarth

Sweet Disregard for the Truth, Glen Coe                              Skinhead Moonstomp, Gogarth

Faery Stories, Fairhead                                                       Barbarossa, Gogah

Above & Beyond, Fairhead                                                  Ludwig, Gogarth

Hells Kitchen Arete, Fairhead                                               Crack Eats Man Alive, Gogarth

Taming the Tiger, Fairhead                                                 Jub Jub Bird, Rhoscolyn

Pressure Point, Mournes                                                     Dreams & Screams, Rhoscolyn

Footloose Crow, Borrowdale                                               Tonight at Noon, Lleyn

Daylight Robbery, Borrowdale                                             Terrorhawk, Lleyn

Camikazi, Borrowdale                                                         Gross Clinic, Lleyn

Ringwraith, Scafell                                                             Rust Never Sleeps, Lleyn

                                                                                   ++Other Realms, Lleyn

                                                                                       Negative Equity, Lleyn

Western Union, Thirlemere                                                 Surreal, Tremadog

Internal Combustion, Raven Ullswater                                  +No Holds Barred, Tremadog

                                                                                       Fingerlicker Direct, Tremadog

Liquid Engineering, Raven Ullswater                                     A Midsummer Nights Dream

Sixpense, Langdale                                                            Unleashing the wild Physique, Pass

Das Kapital, Thirlmere                                                        Lord of the Flies, Pass

Bucket City, Dove crag                                                       The Wrath of Khan, Pass
                           
Pail Face, Dove Crag                                                           New Era, Pass

Woodhouses Arete, Dow Crag                                              Pretty Girls Make Graves, Pass
                         
                                                                                        Alchemy, Pass

                                                                                        Potency, Cwm Silyn
       
                                                                                        The Silver Usurper, Bodlyn, Rhinogs

Paths of Victory, Dow Crag                                                  Rainbow of Recalcitrance, Dinorwic

Stage Fright, Hodge Close quarry                                         Naked Before the Beast, Dinorwic

Hells Wall, Borrowdale                                                        Sombre Music, Dinorwic

Defying Destiny, Stanage                                                    Leafstorm, Nesscliffe

Crypt Trip, Stanage                                                            Strangers, Craig Llong, Pemboke

Salmon Left, Bamford                                                        All or Nothing, Barcud, Pembroke

Block & Tackle, Higgar Tor

Crème de la Crème, Yarncliffe                                            Fear no Evil, Range West 

Adam Smiths Invisible Hand, Millstone                                 Grezelda Grezelda, Pembroke

Perplexity, Millstone                                                           Obsession Box, Pembroke

Messiah, Burbage south                                                      Big in America, Pembroke

Mickey Finn, Gardoms                                                        Hunter Killer, Pembroke

Make it Slappy, Gardoms                                                    Souls, Pemboke

Barriers in Time, Roaches

Master of Reality, Hen Cloud                                               White Hotel, Pembroke

Linden, Curbar                                                                   Little Hunt, Pembroke

Eye of the Tiger, Dovedale                                                  +Free Masonry, Pembroke

Coronary Country, Sharpnose                                              Orange Robe Burning, Pembroke

Hellbound, Smoothlands                                                     Oranges & Lemons, Pembroke

Absolution, Bosigran                                                           +Great White, Pembroke

Morgawr, Bosigran                                                             Ghost Train, Pembroke

Demolition, Sennen                                                          Crimes of Passion, Pembroke                                        

Caveman, Berry Head                                                The Empire Strikes Back, Pembroke

Emergency Ward Ten,Lundy                                                Chasing Shade, Pembroke

+Watching the Ocean, Lundy
 
Voyage of the Acolyte, Lundy

Chase the Ace, Lundy

Ex-Cathedra, Lundy

The Price of Admission, Lundy








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Ryan on the brilliant Free Masonry, possibly the best on this list
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Robins wanting Ryan to hurry up on pitch 2 of Conan
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The Rainbow slab, home to some of the best
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2 idiots on the belay of hellbound. This is best done in one pitch as the belay consists of 2 old pegs you can back up with skyhooks. First pitch has loads of good wires
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