| I finished my last work for a month with a great 15 day stretch starting with a 5 day performance rock course (Nice 1 Harrogate lads), a weekend rope rescue course for Plas Y Brenin and 8 days rock guiding with Pam and Ed. The first week was great weather and involved Dan and Luke climbing some North Wales classics such as Silly Arete and the Dervish. The last week involved dodging the rain but getting out every day bar 1 doing loads of good VSs like Phantom Rib with Pam and Ed leading towards the end of the week. Cheers for a good few weeks folks! |  Ed and Pam on Holyhead Mountain |
 Callum (better than any guide) Musketton El Mancho | Some great news is that Callum Muskett and Miles Perkins climbed Divine Providence in the Alps, quite an achievement, making I believe to be the first teenaged and ginger ascent in one. Callum is the keenest climber I know at the moment and is going from strength to strength, helping to energise the North Wales trad scene. His ticklist of climbs for the year is likely to equal that of everyone elses’ in Wales put together, and he’s always on the HUNT for more. Bloody good effs Callum and Miles! |
| Pete Robbins has given Ogwen its hardest boulder problem at Font 8b. After 8 visits you can be sure its nails as Pete does very hard boulder problems (V12/13s) in 2-5 sessions nowadays and heelhook arêtes are one of his fortes. Petes’ boulder prowess is shown in that he’s only 2 problems off ticking Parisellas cave and he’s nearly done one of those. To have ‘ticked’ the cave will be quite an achievement when you look at the guide.  Pete Robbins on Wild Youth |  Pete Robbins new font8b Isle of Wonder |
Apart from work I’ve been regaining some limestone fitness with some post work LPT sessions. Managed Youthanasia putting the clips in and did another 2 laps finishing off on Parasite with super-strongman Neil Dyer who climbed it more slowly than you would on trad having only been back into climbing 2 weeks from months off! Youthanasia/Wild Youth should definitely become a better known classic as its received little attention since Steve Mayers put it up but is up there with best of its ilk in the UK.Way better than the Brute Doylo. Chris Doyle has ticked the Walking Mussel so all North Wales sport attention has turned towards the recently opened Diamond, one of the UKs greatest hard sport cliffs...in the making.
I’m off to France now so look forward to hearing about the action soon...
I’m off to France now so look forward to hearing about the action soon...
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